Ah Eilat! A rather underrated Israeli city unless you live in Israel. The only reason you don’t hear (much) about Eilat is because there are no terror attacks there (actually there was one, but only one, that I know of).
So my boyfriend and I planned this trip a few months ago, but apparently we didn’t plan it well enough because every once in a while, we found ourselves thinking “We should have done this, it would have been better,” or “If we would have gone there, it would have been nice.” But since we didn’t do this and we didn’t go there, we settled with whatever we had and made mental notes for next time we want to go to Eilat.
Thursday Evening/Night
We got on a bus on Thursday evening and drove almost five hours to the little southern town. We got there at around 10:00 p.m. And being the Jerusalemite I am, when I see darkness, I think cold. So I was dumbstruck when I stepped off the bus and was hit by the city’s typical stiff, dry heat. It reminded me of Las Vegas dry weather and I was pleased.
From Eilat’s central station, we walked to our hotel. Turns out we picked the perfect spot, right next to the pedestrian mall, the beach, the central station, cafes and restaurants, and the airport. But the perfect spot turned out to be a perfect disaster since the hotel we took sucked ass. It was crummy, with ceramic floors instead of wall to wall carpets (which are good in silencing the footsteps of people who drag their feet or who walk in high heels), our room was on the ground floor with a huge window and a curtain that barely covered it. Even the bedsheets were too small and didn’t entirely cover the bed, so they had to spread two sheets over the mattress. The faucet in the bathroom sprayed water in all directions, and the flush button of the toilet was broken.
That wasn’t even the worst of it. That night, while my boyfriend and I were trying to sleep, a large group of Arab and Israeli kids kept walking around the halls, laughing, fighting, talking – being the typical Arsim they are. And from across the hall, we heard people fucking. The girl, being particularly vocal, must have been faking it because I think that after three hours of constant screwing, the vulva is not a happy camper. Yet the screaming continued.
While my boyfriend and I also took our shot at romance, both me and him had to suffocate ourselves because, unlike the people across the hall, we don’t like to broadcast our lovemaking to the entire world. Unfortunately for me, vocalizations are part of the pleasure, and getting the orgasm of a lifetime is kinda hard when you’re concentrating on keeping your voice down.
“How late at night are we going to be back in Jerusalem?” I asked him after settling for an average orgasm. “Because when we get back, I’d like to have sex like a normal human being.”
But before realizing we got ripped off at that hotel, we went out, had dinner, and walked around the boardwalk near the beach. Every shop had a different trance tune bursting the speakers. It didn’t seem to bother us at the beginning, but as time went on, it got to be utterly annoying. When we finally decided to head back to the hotel, I picked up a drum beat that sounded too sharp to be a playback.
“I think there’s a live show somewhere,” I said. We followed the sound, and sure enough, there was a live cover band playing on a porch outside an Irish bar. We sat on the porch relishing the good vibes and the obvious talent the musicians displayed, while savoring the drinks we ordered – my boyfriend with his beer, and me with the yummiest milkshake in the world. This bar was the first positive thing in our trip.
Friday
The next day, we left the hotel room, heading for breakfast. When we walked down the hall, my boyfriend stroked the walls and said “These walls are an illusion.” True enough. Whenever we heard people walking in the halls, it sounded as if they were inside the room. We tried to fill our days up to spend as little time in the hotel as possible.
After breakfast, which was surprisingly good (probably the only good thing about this hotel) we went to the beach. The beach, called Zion Beach, was positive thing number two. In a stark contrast to the Mediterranean, the Red Sea is beautiful, clean, clear blue, with the occasional little fish swimming around your legs. There were no jellyfish, no dirty plastic bags and plastic cups and moldy unidentified blobs of something you can do without floating around you as you swim. Our only problems with the beach involved the population (still made up of annoying Arsim) and of course, the music which alternated between loud trance or boring experimental with vocalists who sounded like they were singing in their sleep.
“Whatever happened to, oh I don’t know, GUITARS?” I asked. “And this wonderful little invention called PERCUSSION?”
My boyfriend expressed his agreement with a feigned snore.
The day was boiling hot, and no matter how many layers of sunscreen we had on, we felt like we were roasting. But the water was freezing cold. I managed to immerse myself only after a series of gasps and screams, as I was walking deeper and deeper. After swimming around with my boyfriend for some time, we went back to our chairs and had a fruit shake.
I noticed two guys and a girl sitting across from us. They were all speaking to each other in broken English. One of the guys had an Israeli accent, and the other guy and the girl had a distinct French accent. I assumed the French guy and girl must be a couple until the Israeli guy started getting awfully friendly with the French guy.
Since I don’t get to see any homosexual activity in Jerusalem, I smiled inside at this refreshing change of scene and told my boyfriend “We have a nice interesting couple next to us,” and jerked my head towards the two guys who were making out in intervals on their chair.
That’s when it hit me that we made it to Eilat during Pride week. That explained all the rainbow flags hanging around the streets and shops. We had just missed the march and the marchers were now flooding the beaches and boardwalks with their costumes, rainbow colored accessories, drag clothes, and flags.
Later on, we walked around a little, exploring the shops, restaurants, bars, passing by street musicians and high society hotels. They looked like fortresses. So I made another mental note that I must get rich so that next time I can score a suite in one of those.
We planned on going scuba diving, so we went to a tourist information center to find out where that can be done. One thing that I know about Eilat is that it’s the only city in Israel where you don’t pay taxes. So obviously, you’d expect everything to be cheaper. Right. That wasn’t happening. Anything we bought cost a fortune, and scuba diving was no different. It was something around 200 NIS per person for an intro session. So instead, we inquired about the underwater observatory park where we can check out the underwater world without getting wet. It was a bit cheaper, so we got a full package for the following day – touring the underwater park site, a short boat ride, a movie and lunch, all included.
That night, we went to the Three Monkeys pub, where they had another live show. They spun some pretty good music before the show, including Smells Like Teen Spirit, and the band was also pretty decent. But the show ended after no more than five songs, and then the bar started spinning horrid old school songs like Ricki Martin and shit, plus some Middle Eastern music. We ran out of there faster than you can say “bleeding ears” and spent the rest of our time sitting on rocks near the beach, still suffering from Middle Eastern and trance music blaring from the boardwalk shops nearby.
“Enough…” my boyfriend whimpered. The poor guy had to suffer the same kind of music during three events he had to attend the past week (two weddings and a bar mitzvah), and now he had to stand it during the weekend.
With no other option, we finally went back to the hotel and tried to sleep. Luckily the group of Arsim were gone, and the fuck marathon seemed to be over. But we still heard people walking around the halls. Some girl passed by our door singing yet another Middle Eastern song. I laughed at the irony and my boyfriend sighed heavily.
“You can’t escape it!” I said. But we slept better that night.
Saturday
On Saturday morning, we went to breakfast and then inquired at the reception at what time we needed to clear the room. They said at noon the latest, which meant that we couldn’t keep our stuff inside the room until we get back from the underwater observatory, and we surely can’t take a shower, change our clothes and get ready for our flight back to Jerusalem, as we had planned.
Crappy thing number 176 about the Red Sea Hotel: You pay for two crummy nights, then it’s “fuck off, sucker.” And if you wanna leave your things in a locker, you have to pay 10 NIS, and you can only open the locker once. Which means that if you want to keep your things locked there, you have to pay another 10 NIS. Ten sheks for every turn of key.
Whatever, we were in too much of a hurry to make it to the observatory on time to whine some more about the hotel. We had no shortage of complaints about it as it is and it was obvious it would be our last time there. So we put our stuff in a locker and left.
We took a cab to the observatory, and on our way, we passed by a tall, dark brown building with blue and orange balconies. It was the Prima Music – the hotel where my cousin and I stayed seven years ago on our trip to Eilat. Not only was it cheaper, it was beautiful, comfortable, included breakfast and dinner, and the walls were not an illusion.
Although I’m sure that during the past seven years, this hotel had increased its prices significantly, I told my boyfriend “This is where we’ll go next time.”
The observatory – enter third positive thing. It was absolutely fascinating and a great educational experience. The arrangement, the decorations, the large tanks and the wide variety of creatures was breathtaking. We walked around the park checking out all the different underwater creatures they had – sharks, catfish, enormous sea turtles, rare species of fish, reptiles, sea horses and a shy squid hiding in the corner of its tank. There was also a tank full of jellyfish, which my boyfriend and I (and any Israeli who’s ever encountered a jellyfish in their life) cringed at. But the cylinder shaped tank was illuminated a gentle blue in the middle of a pitch black room, and the jellyfish dancing around in it made it look like a lava lamp and gave the room a hypnotizing psychedelic appeal. It was the first time I was actually fascinated while looking at jellyfish.
Then, we took a boat ride. My sea sickness wasn’t too bad but the rocking boat made both me and my boyfriend dizzy and high. We sat in the lower part of the boat with underwater windows. We saw some more fish, jellyfish and even saw a sea turtle swimming by in their natural habitat. The guide on the boat explained that the jellyfish in the Red Sea are different than the ones in the Mediterranean in that they’re purple and that they don’t sting.
After the boat ride, we had some time until the screening of the movie we signed up for, so we went for a quick milkshake.
The movie was an exciting documentary about sharks. We sat in the front rows which were on moving platforms, so it felt like we were actually inside the movie, moving around with the water, tilting with the angle of the shot, crashing with the waves. It was much better than expected.
Then, we wanted to go have lunch but there was a long line at the cafeteria and neither of us was too hungry because of the milkshake. So we went back to the sea turtle tank for a while and watched them eating pieces of fish.
Then we had lunch, and left the observatory at around 2:00 p.m. We walked around a bit, looking for a camel ride. Although we saw parked camels near the entrance of the observatory, we didn’t find the program my boyfriend was looking for. So we dropped the idea and went to a nearby beach. This beach, called Almogim, was different and better because it was smaller, there were more families with kids than Arsim, and the music was appropriate reggae. They also served Goldstar from a barrel, which greatly pleased my boyfriend.
It also seemed like the water in that beach was warmer than the one we were in the day before. We were upset once again at the locker at the hotel situation. Had we known about it earlier, we could have taken our bathing suits. But as it was, we could only sit on the seaside, getting our feet a little wet, and head back.
At around 3:30 p.m., we took the cab back to our lockers, and changed into our bathing suits in the hotel public bathrooms. At least they weren’t assholes aboutthat.
We went back to Zion Beach with the annoying music, carrying all our luggage with us this time instead of leaving it in the lockers, and tried to find a shaded spot furthest away from the speakers, but we only found a shaded spot right under the speakers. We put our stuff down and went swimming. After a while, we went back to our chairs, had another fruity shake, and fell asleep with the boring music. At 7:00 p.m., we washed the salt off our body, being the only kind of shower we could take without normal public washroom facilities at the beach, and without a hotel room, and went for a final snack and drink at the Irish Bar nearby.
Our flight was scheduled for 9:25 p.m. and it was probably the shortest airport and flight experience I ever had. We didn’t need passports because we weren’t crossing any borders. We didn’t need to check in our luggage because we only had our backpacks. We quickly passed through security, waited at the gate about half an hour, and the flight left on time, for a change!
The flight itself lasted 30 minutes. But what did take long was the ride we had to take from the Tel Aviv airport to Jerusalem. So we got home at 1:00 a.m.
It was a great experience despite all the mishaps, very satisfying and very necessary after seven years of not being in Eilat. It was also a learning experience, and the lessons can help us in our next trip to Eilat.
Lesson 1: A city that pays no taxes rips you off in everything else.
Lesson 2: Never go to the Red Sea Hotel, and when choosing a hotel, pay more attention to the actual place than the prices. It’s always helpful to get recommendations and suggestions from people you know.
Lesson 3: Have a paper map handy. If you go digital, keep in mind that there isn’t always a wireless network.
Lesson 4: Have a set plan, within your budget, before leaving, and bring your own food. You can save a lot of time and money.
Peace, love and here are some pictures!




















